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I've read the anodizing argument before... doesn't concern me. I've worked on a lot of aircraft parts before and I have no fears of a cadmium plated buffer spring doing anything to harm a 6061-T6 aluminum tube in my lifetime. So long as I keep it out of the ocean, there's little chance of...

You're right. And I've heard of the JP silent spring, but have never seen one in action.

I wouldn't put any grit in there- I was mostly kidding. I'm sure it will get better over time, but it seems these PSA tubes are pretty poor quality- at least on the surfaces you can't see.

And here's option B... Shoot more, possibly with the addition of some alox grit or something bumping around in there.

Ok- help me out here. A couple AR buffer tubes of mine feel like they were extruded over a fence post- the inside is rough as hell. It's really noticeable when operating the charging handle. I've used a few flex hones in other applications and it seems like the tool for the job here. I'm...

Nice work! That looks really good... I'll have to thank you now for spending my money ;)

Ooooo... that looks like a fun weekend project! I'm looking forward to updates-

Maybe somebody can correct me, but I don't believe e-file exists anymore for Form 1's... at least not since 41P (or whatever it's called) went into effect. I think that because of the pictures/finger print requirements, you can't e-file now. I want to get a SBR AR lower going again, but...

Dad loved his 6.5 Grendel (AR platform). I think one of his pawn shop buddies called him once it was out of pawn, and before it went on the rack for the general population to buy. I remember some really good groups he sent pictures of-

Better link- 1"x1"x5" piece, black in color: https://www.mcmaster.com/#8702k571/=16p1hol $7.20 for the part, but knowing McMaster, shipping and tax will be double the part cost.

UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene)... it's typically called wear block for various industrial applications- think those white commercial counter tops. You can get it from Grainger/McMaster/lots of online plastic suppliers. Looks like a 1"x1"x5" piece is about $7.00 at McMaster...

I had an LCP for a short time- trigger was the reason I sold it. I'll have to make a point to handle one of these in person.

Very much in line with my reasons as well!

Awesome! I'd love to see it in person. I was just doing some number checking and seeing what it would cost to build out a G19 sized gun from parts. Kinda pricey... Not as bad as a factory "custom" one, but it's no police trade in either.

Gotcha... way back when, you could get everything but the frame for most pistols on Ebay. I guess they were pistols that were "destroyed" and they only chopped up the frame. I got all the parts for a Ruger P90 for like $100 (minus the frame, obviously). I didn't know if something similar...

I'll be interested to hear how this one goes- I might have to jump on board too... I could use a custom polymer pistola. One question though- where are you guys getting the rest of the parts?

Don't worry- after the first groove is gone, it won't hurt so much anymore. And as someone once told me "never own anything that you're afraid to drill a hole in"

Threaded barrel cover- I was confused looking at the set screw/roll pin thing on the side too.

Well, no. It didn't match the squareness of the Glock slide nearly that well ;)

Well, it's more useful than a thread protector. Kinda expensive though. For what it's worth, I traded into a G30 once upon a time that came with a Stormlake compensated barrel. The barrel extended about 3/4" beyond the slide and had two flat cut outs in it... didn't do crap to noticeably...