Should you go for all "premium" parts? Or whatever fits your budget?
When one wants to build out a registered lower.
- Thread starter madHatter
- Start date
If your doing an ar style sbr I've heard different opinions. The main consensus is do something you will be happy with for a long time that is not going to break easily. This really only applies to the lower itself though because everything else can be replaced as far as I know
I did one on an Anderson lower.....so what do I know?
Sounds good to me. The other train of thought here is that some people are worried about marking up expensive lowers with the engravingI did one on an Anderson lower.....so what do I know?
Go with your gut instinct on this. Since you are dealing with a modular system, start out with the basic "get it running" parts and then upgrade as needed!
doesnt matter, it being registered doesnt mean you cant swap out internal parts
So... Whatever fits the budget?
I know a quality barrel and bcg are a must, anything else?
I know a quality barrel and bcg are a must, anything else?
Same as building any other ar really. The lower is the only part you are stuck with
You're going to get answers all over the board on this. The thing with AR's is that you get what you pay for....sometimes. I would say that for the most part, a forged lower is about the same, regardless of manufacturers. Sure, some have been out of spec (Zombie Defense), but stick with a big name company and you should be fine. Billet is heavier and not as strong as forged...but teh OMGZ faktur is a little higher with billet - if that matters to you.
As far as parts, get what you can afford where you want to spend the money. Obviously, the parts that directly interface with the ammo are probably more important than that cool laser you saw at the gunshow last week. Basically, spend what you can where you want and then run it. If it breaks, reassess and fix it.
Also, Daniel Defense or go home, newb.
Also, kidding.
Also, your mother.
I'll throw this into the conversation... I have seen lowers (billet or regular- speaking to the machined lines/style of the thing not related to materials by the way) cut from 6061-T6 and 7075-T6. For what it's worth, 7075-T6 has a considerably higher yield strength than 6061. It's also about 4x the cost for raw materials.
Personally, I stick with the plain old lowers made from 7075-T6. After that, I rank them based on how much I like or dislike the look of the logo.
Personally, I stick with the plain old lowers made from 7075-T6. After that, I rank them based on how much I like or dislike the look of the logo.
As it has already been stated, it doesn't matter. Alot of guys will tell you that a lower is a lower and just use whatever you can find cheapest. I went a different route with my two SBR lowers and used a higher end forged lower, one from KAC. Because KAC is cool and the lower held some sentimental value to me. The second one was a BCM lower. Mainly because I was almost guaranteed that it would be high quality and the upper going on it was also BCM. For me, part of the reason that I used more expensive lowers was because I knew that I'd essentially own them forever and didn't want to have to look at a PSA or Anderson logo for the next 30 years.
One piece of advice. Whatever you decide to use, test it first. Assemble it and shoot it, just to be sure you don't file paperwork on that 1 in 500 lower that turns out to be a lemon.
One piece of advice. Whatever you decide to use, test it first. Assemble it and shoot it, just to be sure you don't file paperwork on that 1 in 500 lower that turns out to be a lemon.
More looking at components. I stated I have my stamp and am just now getting around to start figuring out what to fill it with.
Apologies, I got lost in the lower discussion. That's easy. Buy the best you can afford and upgrade later if you want / need to.
Personally, I don't mind spending the money on a good trigger. But for the money, the Geissele G2S is the best bang for the buck. Similar pull compared to the SSA, but with a little legwork and patience you can find them for $125-135.
just buy a psa lpk and upgrade down the road if you find something lacking. No reason to make it harder than it needs to be.