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Red Dawn

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If you're sighting in the 300BLK and you shoot both subs for plinking and supers for hunting what's the magic number for zero. I found a chart for viewing and am wondering what do you use for your zero. Is 75 yds where I need to be and just learn my holds from there. Thanks for the help.

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Red Dawn

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Oh and this is a 100 yd or less set up too I'm not trying to stretch out past that when hunting.
 

Red Dawn

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Shot today and in a 50yd setup it was literally 5 inches between subs 208gr 1085 fps and supers 120gr 2250 fps so I guess I need to look into a blk scope that can help compensate for that or change zero ever time switch ammo. I set it up to run supers for hunting for now.
 
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dial1911

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Not surprising at the drop difference.... nearly double the bullet weight makes a difference.

Search for "Sierra Exterior Ballistics" or something similar- exterior ballistics refers to what happens to the bullet outside of the barrel.

Sierra used to have a free online tool for calculating drop for various load combinations. I have no idea if it still exists or not.
 
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Red Dawn

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Is it a consistent difference between the 2 loads?
Yes I think if you use the same make and grain you can repeat it. However every time I go pick up some ammo it's usually a different make and grain. So buy a lot of what you like when you see it.
 
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freedom

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Dope the drop with each load in the field and take notes. If your scope has marked dials, use them. Tape a dope sheet to the stock or store it in the handle.

Once you've verified the info, there's no more guesswork, just adjust the scope.
 

dial1911

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Dope the drop with each load in the field and take notes. If your scope has marked dials, use them. Tape a dope sheet to the stock or store it in the handle.

Once you've verified the info, there's no more guesswork, just adjust the scope.


All ballistic calculators aside, this is the real answer to hitting what you are aiming at
 

Red Dawn

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Thanks guys next outing I'll pick a brand ammo and grain to get a solid baseline for each and go from there.
 

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i have used ozark rounds in a number of my builds and - other than one budget barrel i owned with a tight chamber (that i got rid of) - i have found them to be 100% reliable. these perfect results are with their subs and supers through a kak 16" barrel and a cmmg sbr barrel both suppressed and unsuppressed. it can take them a while sometimes to get the ammo to you so plan ahead if you have an upcoming hunt.
 
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Mac11FA

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Make sure you pay attention to twist rate as well. It has already been mentioned that your bullet weights are different by 2. Also, with the heavier bullet, the velocity is probably half of the supersonic. If you are primarily going to use for hunting, set zero for 100 yds (standard for mosthe centerfire rifles) for the supersonic load. If you plan to hunt suppressed, zero rifle in at 75 yds. Then, dope your scope for the opposite round. You can refer to charts for baselines but the best way is to find out what ammo works both for each application. Hope this helps.
 

ReservoirDawg10

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I zero my 300 blk at 50 yds (subsonic - 208gr Vmax). Most my shots are within that range with an occasional shot out past that, but never past 100.
 
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If you're sighting in the 300BLK and you shoot both subs for plinking and supers for hunting what's the magic number for zero. I found a chart for viewing and am wondering what do you use for your zero. Is 75 yds where I need to be and just learn my holds from there. Thanks for the help.

View attachment 20442
I think you hit it on the head. I'd zero for 75 too, but not because of the chart. Keep in mind that those charts are a little confusing. It shows one load "rising" when it's simply a difference in point of aim compared to the faster load. I like 75 because you'll be ok for 50-100 with little Kentucky windage required.
 

freedom

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You have a near zero, far zero, and maximum ordinate. As long as you know those three numbers, it doesn't matter where you sight in.
 
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Cudruln

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freedom

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